The Road to Calvi

Amalfi Coast and Rome
October 9th and 10th


After 10 days of manual labor on the farm we left with fond memories, blisters on our hands from digging fence post holes, cranberry red stained fingernails from making Pinot Noir wine, a fat lip from hitting my head on a stone countertop during a fall and 10 newly earned pounds from eating pasta at every meal. We decided we needed some rest and relaxation. Therefore, we chose to spend some time on the Amalfi Coast before heading up to Calvi dell Umbria for our next assignment.

From San Giovanni two different driving routes led to the Coast. Of course we took the “Zen” way-heading up the Italian version of the PCH along the Mediterranean Sea. Once we passed Salerno we were in for a ride. Now I know why Europeans are better at Grand Prix and Motorcycle Racing. We had approximately 50 miles on a one and a half lane windy no guard rail road carved into the mountain at 500 feet above sea level. Roby was driving with white knuckles wishing he knew how to swear in Italian at the crazy tour bus drivers who had no business being on this road and the completely lunatic scooter riders. Some of the turns were at such a sharp angle you had to come to a complete stop, make sure no oncoming traffic was in your way, and then quickly bend around the corner. The only consolation to this hair raising ride was the incredible unobstructed view of the entire Amalfi Coast from The Hotel Doria at the summit.

All we needed to cure us was a hot shower and a drink. After 10 days of cold slow dripping showers at the farm, I just wanted to let hot water drown me for at least 15 minutes. I also needed to shave desperately. I was starting to look like a European!!! Squeaky clean and in new outfits we headed down to the hotel restaurant for lunch. Not having the energy to venture too far from home we decided to enjoy our immediate surroundings for the afternoon. Roby took full advantage of our deck soaking up some sun, playing his guitar and drinking a cold beer. That evening our nerves had calmed down so we decided to head into the town of Amalfi back down the hill. Thankfully we did not have to drive; the hotel had a shuttle. I am not sure if being a passenger is any better especially with an Italian driver. We were vindicated though because the hotel driver was swearing at the same tour bus drivers and scooters as we were. He dropped us off in the town square and would be back to pick us up in 4 hours.

The town square is perfectly located on the water’s edge with a big jetty and boardwalk. It was almost sunset so we took a stroll along the waterway enjoying the view. The weather was perfect-what we call “no weather”. The air is still and the temperature is exactly where you can be completely naked and not feel anything. Okay we had clothes on but we did not need a jacket. We headed toward the tourist trap area with all the shops and ventured through the narrow streets window shopping. We happened upon a great little store famous for its locally made limoncello and olive oil. Everything made in this region has a twinge of lemon in it even the chocolate. We can attest, the lemon white chocolate is delicious. The store owner gave us some samples and we ate the whole plate. After purchasing several items and cleaning out our bank account, we decided to have a glass of wine and people watch. The café was perfectly located in the center of town with the colossal church anchoring the street scene. As the sun set we continued our stroll through town and found a quaint little restaurant tucked away behind several buildings up three flights of stairs. To find the good food you have to let your nose lead you.

With the fall breeze coming through the open window it took the coffee to wake Roby up the next morning. Luckily, because we had only 20 minutes to spare for the free breakfast buffet. It was delightful, fresh squeezed juice, fresh fruit and yogurt, and chocolate pastries all with a view of the mountains and sea. Trying to delay our departure we hiked up the hotel spiral staircase to the outdoor veranda where we had an unobstructed view of the entire coastline. The noon bell rang and with the long ride to Rome we forced ourselves out of the lounge chairs. Wish we could have stopped time.

We loaded up and decided to continue around the mountain through Positano and Sorrento before we hit the A1 freeway to Rome. This choice was made after we missed the turn to the freeway just outside of Amalfi. Sometimes mistakes turn out for the better because the drive was gorgeous. The three hour ride turned into five because of our wonderful navigation skills. No problem finding Rome it was our hotel we could not locate even though we passed it several times. Luckily we noticed the street name on our third pass and finally rolled into the parking lot close to dark. Despite our best efforts to head into the city for an evening of pleasure, we ended up having dinner at the local German Bier Garden. One would think the menu would be filled with wonderful sausage sandwiches and sauerkraut but in Italy, every restaurant regardless of its ethnicity only serves Italian food. Therefore it was pizza and Bier.

The next morning we drove to the subway station and took the train into Rome. Two places we missed on our last visit to Italy was the Vatican Museum and the Pantheon. Unbeknownst to us the Vatican Museum is not open on Sunday. Although we were disappointed in not getting to see the famous art collection, the Pope was in town and once we made it through the tight security and metal detectors we watched Him give Mass. Unfortunately there was no shade and it was an excruciatingly hot day so we cut our visit with the Pope short and headed toward our next stop. As we walked to the Pantheon I remembered why I loved Rome so much. I am not sure another place exists where history hits you around every corner. Paris is an incredible city but the architecture is mostly from one era. In Rome you are bombarded with buildings and sculptures from an array of time periods. The Pantheon is no exception. The outside reveals its age but once you enter the church you are surprised by the preservation of the interior. Stunned by the use of color and carvings in the stone walls as well as its design, we were amazed such a scientific feat was accomplished. As we exited the Pantheon we happened upon the Trevi Fountain. Oh just another masterpiece from Roman times.